Boat Lift Accessories: What Each One Solves and Which Are Worth It
Quick answer
The accessories that most often pay for themselves are guide posts or V-sides (repeatable positioning), an auto stop or limit switch (prevents over-raising, a common cause of cable and beam damage), a remote or reliable switch, and a motor cover. Catwalks, boarding steps, lights, and bunk slicks are worth it when the site or the boat makes boarding or loading awkward. Buy accessories to fix a specific problem, not as a bundle.
On this page
- Priority by situation
- Positioning: guide posts, V-sides, and bunk slicks
- Control: auto stops, limit switches, and remotes
- Access: catwalks, boarding steps, and handrails
- Lighting
- Protection: covers, canopies, and anodes
- Installation and convenience: wheel kits and solar
- Typical accessory costs
- Accessories that often disappoint
- Frequently asked questions
- Sources and further reading
Most boat lift accessories exist because of one of four problems: getting the boat onto the bunks in the same place every time, stopping the lift at the right height, getting people on and off the boat safely, and protecting the lift's own parts. If you can name the problem, choosing the accessory is easy. If you cannot, the accessory probably will not get used.
Priority by situation
| Situation | High priority | Nice to have |
|---|---|---|
| Crosswind or current at the slip | Guide posts or V-sides, bunk slicks | Lights for night approaches |
| Several drivers in the household | Auto stop or limit switch, guide posts | Remote with lockout |
| Lift away from the dock, or no side dock | Catwalk, boarding steps | Handrail |
| No shore power | DC drive with solar charger | Battery monitor |
| Seasonal removal | Wheel kit | Quick-release canopy |
| Older owners or kids aboard | Boarding steps, catwalk with grip surface | Lights |
| Saltwater, high sun | Motor cover, anodes where specified | Canopy |
Positioning: guide posts, V-sides, and bunk slicks
Guide posts
Guide posts are vertical poles, usually padded or fitted with rollers, mounted on the cradle or lift frame on each side of the boat. They give the driver a visual target and physically center the hull as it settles. Centered boats sit level, load the lift evenly, and keep weight distributed the way the capacity rating assumes. Off-center loads are one of the main reasons a lift rated for the boat still wears unevenly. See guide posts and V-sides.
Worked example: setting guide post spacing
A boat has a maximum beam of 8 ft 6 in (102 in). The guide posts sit where the hull is near maximum beam when the boat is on the bunks.
- Common target: 2 to 3 in of clearance per side at maximum beam with padding installed
- Inside spacing between padded faces: 102 + (2 x 2.5) = 107 in, about 8 ft 11 in
- If the pads are 2 in thick, the posts themselves sit at 107 + (2 x 2) = 111 in center face to center face of the bare posts
Too tight and the hull rubs every time; too loose (6 in or more per side) and the posts stop centering the boat. In strong current, a slightly tighter setting with rollers helps.
V-sides and keel guides
V-sides are angled guide boards or rails that funnel the hull to center as the lift rises. Keel guides do the same at the bottom of a V-hull. They work well for boats that are driven on at speed or in chop.
Bunk slicks
Poly slicks over carpeted bunks reduce friction so the boat slides to center under its own weight. They also wear more slowly than carpet. The caution: a slick bunk with no stop lets the boat slide aft or forward on a slope. Details in bunk materials.
Control: auto stops, limit switches, and remotes
Auto stop and limit switches
Over-raising is a common and expensive failure: the cradle hits the top beam or stops, the motor keeps pulling, and cables, sheaves, or beams take loads far above design. A limit switch cuts power at a set height. Many systems also stop at the bottom so cables do not unwind past the drum and wrap backwards. For a lift used by several people, this is often the single most valuable accessory.
Remotes and switches
Wireless remotes let the driver raise the lift from the boat or dock. Look for momentary (hold-to-run) operation so releasing the button stops the lift, a range that covers your approach, and a lockout so children cannot operate the lift. Keep a hardwired switch as backup. See remotes and controls and remote control not working.
Safety: Remotes make it possible to start a lift without seeing it. Never operate a lift with anyone in the water nearby or under the boat, and never stand under a raised boat. Any AC wiring for motors, remotes, or lights must be installed by a licensed electrician with GFCI or ELCI protection; stray current in fresh water can cause electric shock drowning.
Access: catwalks, boarding steps, and handrails
Catwalks
A catwalk is a narrow walkway along one side of the lift, typically 18 to 36 in wide, for boarding and maintenance. It matters most when the lift sits off the end of a dock or alongside a dock that is too low or too far from the boat's gunwale. Catwalks come in aluminum frames with wood, composite, or grated decking. Choose slip-resistant surfaces and check that the catwalk does not interfere with the cradle's travel or the boat's rub rails. Dock geometry is covered in dock and slip layout.
Boarding steps and ladders
When the boat is raised, the deck can sit several feet above the dock. Boarding steps (a short stair or step box) or a ladder bridge that gap. Steps fixed to the catwalk are more stable than portable ones. On tidal water, the height difference changes through the day, which makes adjustable or multi-step solutions more useful.
Lighting
Lift lights help night approaches, illuminate the slip, and make the lift visible to other boaters. LED fixtures are standard. Options include lights on the top beam or canopy, underwater lights, and post-mounted lights. Underwater lights attract fish and insects and may be restricted on some lakes; check local rules.
Worked example: lights on a DC solar lift
A DC lift runs on a 12 V battery charged by solar. The owner wants 40 W of LED lighting for 4 hours each night.
- Daily energy for lights: 40 W x 4 h = 160 Wh
- Battery current draw: 160 Wh / 12 V = about 13.3 Ah per night
- Lift use: suppose each raise draws about 5 Ah and the boat goes out twice a day, raise plus lower each time, so roughly 4 cycles x 5 Ah = 20 Ah
- Total daily demand: 13.3 + 20 = 33.3 Ah
The lights alone add about two thirds as much demand as the lift. On a system sized only for the lift, the battery will slowly run down, especially in cloudy weeks. Size the panel and battery for both, or put lights on a separate supply. The solar charger sizing tool does this calculation, and solar boat lift chargers explains the trade-offs.
Protection: covers, canopies, and anodes
- Motor and winch covers keep sun, rain, and bird droppings off the drive. UV degrades motor housings and wiring insulation, and water in the motor or switch box is a frequent cause of failures. Inexpensive and often worthwhile.
- Canopies protect the boat itself. They are a major purchase with their own sizing and wind questions; see boat lift canopies.
- Anodes on lifts in brackish and salt water reduce corrosion of submerged metal when the system is designed for them. See corrosion protection.
- Bird deterrents such as spikes or spinning devices on top beams reduce droppings, which are corrosive and slippery.
Installation and convenience: wheel kits and solar
Wheel kits bolt to the legs of free-standing lifts so the lift can be rolled in and out of the water each season. They are close to essential for lifts that come out every winter in northern lakes. See seasonal lift removal. Solar chargers keep DC lift batteries topped up where there is no shore power. They need clear sun exposure and a battery sized for usage.
Typical accessory costs
| Accessory | Typical range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Guide posts (pair) | 200 to 800 | Rollers and lighted tops cost more |
| V-sides or keel guide | 150 to 600 | Depends on length and material |
| Bunk slicks | 100 to 400 | Per set, by bunk length |
| Limit switch or auto stop | 150 to 600 | Installation extra on AC systems |
| Wireless remote kit | 200 to 700 | Check compatibility with motor and control box |
| Catwalk | 600 to 2,500+ | By length, decking, and mounting |
| Boarding steps or ladder | 150 to 1,000 | Fixed steps cost more than portable |
| LED lift lights | 150 to 1,200 | Electrical work extra |
| Motor cover | 40 to 200 | Make sure it vents |
| Wheel kit | 400 to 2,000 | For free-standing lifts |
| Solar charger kit | 200 to 900 | Panel, controller, mounting |
For full project budgets see the boat lift cost guide.
Accessories that often disappoint
- Generic guide posts on the wrong lift. If the mounting brackets do not match the cradle, posts loosen and wobble. Buy brand-matched kits where possible.
- Remotes without a backup switch. A dead fob or failed receiver should not leave the boat stuck.
- Slicks with no stops. The boat can drift fore or aft, putting weight off-center.
- Lights on an undersized solar system. See the worked example above.
- Sealed motor covers. Covers that trap moisture can cause more corrosion than they prevent.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need guide posts on my boat lift?
They are not required, but they make it much easier to position the boat in the same spot every time, especially in wind or current. A centered boat loads the lift evenly and sits level. For most owners, especially with several drivers, guide posts are one of the most useful accessories.
What does an auto stop do on a boat lift?
An auto stop or limit switch cuts motor power when the cradle reaches a set height. It prevents the cradle from being driven into the top beam or stops, which can overload cables, sheaves, and beams. Some systems also stop at the bottom to keep cables from unwinding past the drum.
Can I add a remote to my existing boat lift?
Usually, if the remote kit is compatible with your motor voltage and control box. Many brands sell retrofit kits, and universal receivers exist. AC installations should be wired by a licensed electrician with GFCI or ELCI protection. Choose hold-to-run operation and keep a wired switch as backup.
Is a catwalk worth it on a boat lift?
It is worth it when you cannot board safely from the dock: when the lift is off the end of a dock, when the dock is low compared with the raised deck, or when tide changes the height through the day. It also makes maintenance on the far side of the lift much easier.
Do boat lift lights drain a solar battery?
They can. A 40 W set of LED lights running 4 hours a night uses about 13 Ah from a 12 V battery, which may be close to what the lift itself uses daily. Size the solar panel and battery for both loads, use timers, or power the lights separately.
Sources and further reading
- NFPA 70, National Electrical Code, Article 555 (Marinas, Boatyards, and Docking Facilities) (https://www.nfpa.org/)
- ABYC E-11, AC and DC Electrical Systems on Boats (https://www.abycinc.org/)
- U.S. Coast Guard Boating Safety resources (https://www.uscgboating.org/)
- Manufacturer owner's manuals and accessory installation instructions for boat lifts, general guidance on limit switches, guide posts, and remotes