Boat Davits: How Two-Point Hoists Work, and When They Are the Right Lift
Quick answer
Boat davits are pairs of arms mounted on a dock, seawall or pilings that hoist a boat by two lifting points, usually at the bow and stern, using cable winches. They are compact and inexpensive for lighter boats, commonly under about 4,000 lb, but the boat hangs from two points instead of resting on bunks, so lifting hardware, balance and sea state matter far more than on a cradle lift.
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A davit is the oldest lifting idea on the waterfront: an arm that reaches out over the water with a line hanging from its tip. Ships carried lifeboats on davits for centuries. On residential docks and seawalls, a pair of davits does the same job for a small runabout, a skiff, a jon boat or a tender, lifting it clear of the water by its bow and stern.
Davits are often the simplest and least expensive way to get a light boat out of the water where there is a hard edge to mount on. They also ask more of the owner than a cradle lift: the boat is suspended, not supported, and the forces concentrate at two small fittings on the hull.
Types of davits
- Fixed-arm dock or seawall davits: two arms bolted to a wall cap, dock frame or pilings, each with a winch (manual or electric) and a cable dropping to the boat. The boat hangs parallel to the wall.
- Rotating (swing) davits: arms that pivot on a vertical post so the boat can be lifted and swung over the dock or seawall. Useful for small boats and PWCs, but the post base carries the full overturning moment in every direction.
- Ceiling or beam hoists: in boathouses, two hoists hang from the roof structure. Same two-point logic, with the building carrying the load. See boathouse lifts.
- Boat-mounted davits: on larger yachts, davits on the swim platform or transom carry a tender. These are a different product category with their own installation rules from the boat builder.
Some davit systems add a spreader bar and slings so the boat is cradled under the hull instead of hanging from fittings. That distinction matters a lot, as the next sections show.
How the load splits between bow and stern
A boat hung from two points is a simple beam on two supports. Each lifting point carries a share of the weight inversely proportional to its distance from the center of gravity. Most powerboats carry their weight well aft because of the engine, batteries and fuel, so the stern davit almost always works harder than the bow.
Worked example: sizing davits for an 18 ft runabout
Assumptions: loaded weight 2,400 lb (hull, 115 hp outboard, 25 gal of fuel at 6.1 lb/gal, one battery, light gear). Lifting eyes 15 ft apart. Center of gravity 5 ft forward of the stern eye, which is typical with an outboard hanging off the transom.
- Distance from CG to bow eye: 15 - 5 = 10 ft.
- Stern eye load: 2,400 x 10 / 15 = 1,600 lb.
- Bow eye load: 2,400 x 5 / 15 = 800 lb.
- Required per-davit rating with a 25% margin on the heavier point: 1,600 x 1.25 = 2,000 lb.
A davit pair advertised as "3,000 lb capacity" may mean 1,500 lb per arm, which would be undersized for the stern here even though the total looks generous. Always read the rating as per-arm or per-pair, and size each arm to the heavier point.
Now the base load. If each davit arm reaches 4 ft from the face of the wall to the cable, the stern davit base resists 1,600 x 4 = 6,400 ft-lb of overturning moment. With base bolts 12 in (1 ft) apart vertically on the wall face, the top bolts see roughly 6,400 lb of pull-out, plus shear. That is why davit bases need engineered anchors into sound concrete, or through-bolts into structural timber, not lag screws into a deck board.
Lifting eyes, slings and spreader bars
This is where most davit accidents begin. A bow eye is designed for trailering and towing loads, pulling forward along the hull. Lifting puts a vertical load on it, and on many boats the eye's backing structure is not designed for that. Some boats come with factory lifting eyes rated and positioned for hoisting; many do not.
- Use only rated lifting points. Check the owner's manual or ask the builder whether the boat has designated lift eyes and what load they are rated for.
- If there are no rated lifting eyes, use lifting slings under the hull with spreader bars that keep the slings from squeezing the gunwales. Position slings at points the manual identifies, away from transducers, trim tabs and strakes that could be crushed.
- Use a bridle on each eye, or a spreader bar, so the cable pulls vertically. An angled pull adds a horizontal force that can tear out a fitting.
- Match hardware ratings: shackles, hooks and cable terminations should carry rated working loads from the hardware maker, in a corrosion-resistant grade appropriate for the water.
Safety: A boat hanging from davits can swing and drop. Never stand under it, never board it while it is hanging unless the system and the boat are specifically designed for that, and never leave it partly raised with people working nearby. Electric davit winches need a GFCI or ELCI protected supply installed by a licensed electrician; faulty dock wiring can energize the water and cause electric shock drowning.
Swing, wakes and storms
A boat on a cradle lift rests on bunks and is boxed in by guide posts. A boat on davits is a pendulum. Wakes push it, wind rocks it, and if it touches the wall at the bottom of a swing, it hits hard. Practical consequences:
- Raise high and snug: lift the boat until it is clear of the highest wake you expect, then tie it to the davit arms or wall with fore and aft lines and fenders to stop swinging.
- Exposed water is a poor fit: on open bays and busy channels with constant wave action, a cradle lift is usually safer for the boat and the wall.
- Drain plug and rain: a hanging boat that fills with rain adds weight fast. Rainwater weighs 8.3 lb per gallon; 50 gal in the bilge and cockpit is over 400 lb, mostly at the stern. Pull the drain plug or use a tight cover.
- Hurricane season: a boat on davits is particularly vulnerable to surge and wind. Remove it from the water and the davits when a major storm threatens. See hurricane preparation.
Davits or a cradle lift: decision table
| Situation | Davits | Better alternative |
|---|---|---|
| Light boat, under about 2,500 lb loaded, with rated lift eyes | Good fit | None needed |
| Boat over about 4,000 lb loaded | Usually not appropriate | Elevator lift or vertical lift |
| No rated lifting points, owner unwilling to use slings | Do not use | Any bunk-supported lift |
| Open water with frequent waves | Swinging and wall contact likely | Vertical or elevator lift with guides |
| Sound seawall, narrow canal, tender or skiff | Very good fit | Elevator lift if the boat grows |
| Boathouse with strong roof framing | Ceiling hoists are common | Boathouse cradle lift for heavier boats |
Costs in 2026
Davits are among the less expensive lifting options. A pair of manual dock davits for a small boat can cost on the order of 1,500 to 4,000 USD for hardware, with electric winches, larger capacities and stainless construction pushing totals toward 5,000 to 10,000 USD or more installed. Wall repair or new anchors are extra. These are typical ranges that vary by region, water conditions and installer, not quotes. For broader context see the cost index.
Failure modes
| Failure | Cause | Prevention |
|---|---|---|
| Bow or stern eye pulls out of the hull | Eye not designed for vertical lifting; corroded backing plate | Use rated lift eyes or slings |
| Davit base pulls out of wall | Lag screws or undersized anchors; cracked cap; rotting timber | Engineered anchors into sound structure; annual check |
| Cable breaks | Corrosion and fatigue at the winch drum or arm sheave | Replace on schedule; inspect for broken wires |
| Boat drops on one end | Manual winch pawl slips; brake worn | Service winch; never leave boat partly raised |
| Hull or gunwale damage | Slings without spreader bars; boat swinging into wall | Spreader bars; snug tie-off; fenders |
| Arm bends | Overload at stern davit, often from rainwater | Size to heavier point; drain plug out or cover on |
What most guides get wrong
Most davit listings advertise a single total capacity, and buyers compare it with the boat's brochure weight. That ignores two corrections that compound: loaded weight is commonly 20 to 40% higher than dry weight, and the stern point usually carries 60 to 70% of that load. A boat with a 1,800 lb brochure weight can put 1,500 lb or more on the stern davit alone. Use the capacity calculator and the boat weight database, then split the load as shown above.
Inspection procedure
- With no boat hanging, inspect each base for movement, cracks in the surrounding concrete, rust stains and loose or corroded bolts.
- Check each arm for bends, cracks at welds and corrosion where it enters the base.
- Pay out the full cable and inspect it along its length. Replace on broken wires, kinks, birdcaging or heavy corrosion; see boat lift cables.
- Spin the arm sheaves and check groove wear.
- Test the winch brake or pawl under a moderate load before lifting the boat.
- Inspect the boat's lift eyes and backing plates from inside the hull, or the slings and spreader bars for UV and chafe damage.
- For electric winches, test the GFCI or ELCI protection, and have a licensed electrician correct any wiring issue.
Frequently asked questions
How much weight can boat davits lift?
Residential dock and seawall davits are commonly rated somewhere between about 500 lb and 4,000 lb, and listings may quote per-arm or per-pair capacity. Because most boats carry much of their weight near the stern, each davit should be sized to the heavier lifting point with margin, not to half the total weight. Confirm how the manufacturer states its rating.
Can I lift my boat by the bow eye?
Only if the boat builder says the bow eye is rated for lifting. Many bow eyes are designed for trailering and towing loads and may not tolerate a sustained vertical lift. If your boat lacks designated lifting eyes, use lifting slings with spreader bars under the hull at the positions recommended in the owner's manual.
Are davits or a boat lift better for a small boat?
Davits are cheaper and compact, and work well for light boats on calm, protected water with a sound seawall or dock. A cradle lift supports the hull along bunks, does not swing, and puts no load on hull fittings, so it is better for heavier boats, open water, or boats without rated lifting points. Many canal owners start with davits and switch as boats grow.
How do I stop my boat swinging on davits?
Raise the boat high enough to clear expected wakes, then tie it fore and aft to the davit arms or cleats on the wall with lines that limit movement, and hang fenders where the hull could touch. Some systems include tie-down straps or guide arms. On water with constant wave action, swinging is hard to control, and a cradle lift is often a better choice.
Do davits need a permit?
Sometimes. Installing davits on an existing seawall or dock may be treated as minor work in some areas, while others require a building or shoreline permit, especially if anchors penetrate the wall or new pilings are added. In navigable waters, federal and state agencies may also have jurisdiction. Check with your local building department before installing.
Sources and further reading
- U.S. Coast Guard Boating Safety resources, uscgboating.org
- ABYC standards for boat construction and fittings, American Boat and Yacht Council, abycinc.org
- NFPA 70, National Electrical Code, Article 555, nfpa.org
- Wire Rope Technical Board, Wire Rope Users Manual
- U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Regulatory Program, structures in navigable waters, usace.army.mil
- Boat builder owner's manuals (designated lifting points and sling positions) and davit manufacturer installation manuals